Updated
While it's only April, it's possible we’ve already seen the watch of the year and it’s not another Rolex or Patek, but a handsome number from Breitling.
What distinguishes the somewhat cumbersomely named AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition is simple. It has the kind of look that suggests it will never go out of style, the kind that instantly says “strap me on”.
Not too big at a tad over 41 millimetres, it’s wonderfully legible, with a dial uncluttered by a date window or unnecessary verbiage (yes Rolex, we’re looking at you) and comes with that unnecessary must-have, chronograph functions, meaning you can time whatever you need to time, at the press of a button.
It’s a watch with not just broad appeal, but narrow appeal too. Dentists, for example. My dentist is the only person I’ve known to actually use a watch’s chrono functions on a regular basis, in his case timing the “setting” of temporary fillings. I’m guessing he’s not alone. Among dentists.
A watch dedicated to dentists doesn’t have the same ring as one aimed at intrepid aviators, which is why the new AVI retains the aviation-inspired name of its 67-year-old predecessor – which you’d agree sounds better than, say, the Breitling Chronodent or Chronodontic.
The original AVI, also known as the Co-Pilot, was launched in 1953 (around my dentist’s birthdate as it happens) with cockpit cohorts firmly in mind, which explains its businesslike cast. A black dial is overlaid with hand-applied oversized luminous Arabic markers and “syringe” hands, topped with a domed hesalite crystal and rotating bezel.
It’s a combination seen in other watches of the day such as Breguet’s Aeronavale/Type XX. Putting legibility and practicality first and foremost, it defines the classic chrono.
Breitling’s re-creation, meticulously researched and crafted, leaves the winning formula alone, changing nothing except the movement, the latter now an in-house manually wound COSC-certified chronometer calibre. The original’s dimensions – and demeanour – all intact. It makes you wonder why such watches were abandoned in the first place – blame the ’70s? – given the appeal of their design isn’t limited to lovers of all
things antediluvian.
At the AVI (2020) launch, Breitling chief executive Georges Kern opined: “It was always clear to us that longtime Breitling fans would embrace these watches. But it’s also exciting to see how strongly they appeal to people who are new to our brand – they can take one look at a Re-Edition and see how much living history, innovation, and cool luxury we can pack into a single watch.”
"exciting" - Google News
March 23, 2020 at 07:52AM
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A design from decades ago is exciting watch lovers all over again - The Australian Financial Review
"exciting" - Google News
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