The trade show Watches and Wonders Geneva, one of the watch industry’s largest annual events, took place this past week for the first time in-person since 2019. Thirty-eight brands presented in the Palexpo exhibition hall, and about 22,000 guests attended the event. Newbies included mega-brands, like Patek Philippe and Rolex, as well as Swiss brand Oris and Japanese powerhouse Grand Seiko. Below, WSJ.’s top 10 new designs from the fair.

A. Lange & Söhne

Photo: Courtesy of A. Lange & Sohne

A. Lange & Söhne, the German watchmaker known for its complicated timepieces, introduces its first minute repeater to the Richard Lange watch family. The new release features a single complication with a sliding pusher that triggers a chiming mechanism indicating the hours, quarter-hours and minutes in succession. Its aesthetics are as crisp as its acoustics, with a three-part white-enamel dial set inside a 39mm platinum case with slender black numerals, thermally blued steel hands and a classic seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater, price upon request, Alange-Soehne.com

Vacheron Constantin

Photo: Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin reissues a classic with the new Historiques 222, which was first introduced in 1977 in celebration of the 222nd anniversary of the maison. Though it was not the brand’s first foray into sporty watches, it certainly became one of the most distinct, with its integrated bracelet, flat base and fluted bezel. Updates to the original 37mm yellow-gold form include a new in-house movement and an openworked caseback that reveals the caliber. Subtle additions include the Super-LumiNova coating on the hands and hours and a new approach to the bracelet’s articulations.Vacheron Constantin, Historiques 222, $62,500, Vacheron-Constantin.com

Van Cleef & Arpels

Photo: Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

It’s easy to lose track of time with Van Cleef & Arpels’s new Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier. Set inside the 38mm rose-gold case is a dynamic floral enamel motif that indicates the hour through a distinct pattern among 12 mechanical flowers that “bloom” in a specialized cycle at the start of every hour. The left case side features a retrograde linear minutes display.Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier watch, $246,000, VanCleefArpels.com

TAG Heuer

Photo: Courtesy of TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Plasma features 11.7 carats of lab-grown diamonds in four ways as well as the Heuer 02T in-house caliber. The dial is composed of finely ground diamond powder and set with diamond indices, while the 44mm aluminum case is set with precisely shaped diamonds—“shapes that would be very difficult, if not impossible, to do with an actual diamond,” says Frédéric Arnault, the CEO of TAG Heuer. The most striking component is the crown, which is itself a 2.5-carat diamond.TAG Heuer, Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph, $380,000, TAGHeuer.com

Panerai

Photo: Courtesy of Panerai

Panerai’s Submersible line gets a few playful updates with three new QuarantaQuattro watches, which come in a range of colored dials, materials and straps. The QuarantaQuattro Bianco is bright and fresh with a white dial, luminescent markers and a brushed steel case. Its army-green rubber strap is made partly of recycled materials.

Panerai, Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco, $9,600, Panerai.com

Patek Philippe

Photo: Courtesy of Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe’s new Calatrava offers a more casual, vintage inspired option to the line of timepieces. It features a textured charcoal gray dial with a black gradient rim and gold markers covered with a beige luminescent coating, all encased in a white-gold case. The flanks are embellished with a guilloché hobnail pattern that adds a retro touch. It also features a beige calfskin strap with a nubuck finish.

Patek Philippe, Calatrava 5226G, $39,033, Patek.com

Hermès

Photo: Courtesy of Hermès

The Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur is a two-time-zone watch that is playful and practical. “We like to propose serious complications [while] having fun and telling stories,” says Laurent Dordet, CEO of La Montre Hermès. The home time is viewed in an aperture at 12 o’clock, and the destination’s time is displayed on a satellite dial. Push a button on the case side to advance the satellite time zone indicated by city names ringed around the main dial. The dial shows a map of an imaginary world originally seen on an Hermès scarf.

Hermès, Blue Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, $22,550, Hermes.com

Rolex

Photo: Courtesy of Rolex

At first glance the new GMT Master II—with a bicolor bezel in green and black, date window and Oyster steel bracelet—looks similar to previously released versions. The difference? The crown has been moved to the left side of the watch, opening up the possibilities for the right-wristed watch wearers of the world. 

Rolex, Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II, $10,050, Rolex.com

Cartier

Photo: © Cartier

A new addition to the Cartier Privé collection, which is aimed at reissuing classic designs, reinvigorates a lesser-known Tank. The Tank Chinoise was first introduced in 1922 in a square case with substantial horizontal bars that square off its silhouette at the top and bottom, a design inspired by the porticoes of Chinese temples. The new version is in a rectangular case that adds a more fluid and sophisticated look to the watch. 

Cartier, Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise, $28,300, Cartier.com

H. Moser & Cie.

Photo: Courtesy of H. Moser

Hammer a gold dial, smear on three different green pigments, then put the concoction into an oven and subject it to extremely high temperatures. A much more precise version of this procedure creates the dial on the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green. A pop of color and the hour, minute and seconds hands are the dial’s only features. No numerals, no brand name. Edouard Myelan, the CEO of H. Moser & Cie., says that “[there are] things that we feel are helping us think differently and explore new ways of doing watchmaking, especially on the movement side.”

H. Moser & Cie., Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Lime Green, $27,600, H-Moser.com