ZING ALONG Fresh herbs, bright lemon and a little chile heat bring new life to the bean salad, an old picnic favorite.
Photo: Kate Sears for The Wall Street Journal, Food Styling by Pearl Jones, Prop Styling by Suzie MyersThe Chef: Philip Krajeck
His Restaurants: Rolf and Daughters and Folk, in Nashville, Tenn.
What He’s Known For: Thoughtful cooking served up in a gracious, accessible style. Old World breads and pizzas made with the best regional ingredients.
NOT EVERYONE brings the same gusto to a three-bean salad that Philip Krajeck does. The chef credits his upbringing in Brussels, where his father worked for NATO, with giving him a fresh perspective.
Mr. Krajeck’s update on the American picnic staple, his final Slow Food Fast recipe, debuted nearly two years ago along with his second restaurant, Folk, in Nashville. The point of reference was his mother’s version. “She made hers with three beans, celery, strong Italian dressing and bell peppers,” he said. Mr. Krajeck kept the beans and celery but swapped in green goddess dressing and livened things up with minced jalapeño, slivers of scallion and fistfuls of fresh herbs. You can find fried shallots to garnish the salad at Asian markets and many supermarkets. The crunch is fantastic.
At Folk this dish features fresh shelling beans, but the recipe works well with canned or frozen beans, too. (Dried beans are also great, as long as you factor in longer cooking.) Whatever you use, the beans will drink that creamy dressing right up. And like the salad of picnics past, this is just as delicious at room temperature as it is warm.
TOTAL TIME: 30 minutes SERVES: 4
3 cups mixed fresh, canned or frozen lima beans, cranberry beans, chickpeas or butter beans
1 bay leaf
1 dried red chile
3 cloves garlic
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh dill
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh tarragon leaves
½ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
¼ roughly chopped cup basil
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Greek yogurt
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus more juice as needed
½ jalapeño, minced
2 scallions, white and pale-green parts only, thinly sliced
4 stalks celery, very thinly sliced, plus 2 tablespoons celery leaves
½ cup fried shallots (optional)
1. Place beans in a medium pot and cover with 1½ inches water. Add bay leaf, chile and garlic. Simmer over medium heat until aromatics flavor beans, about 15 minutes. Season with salt.
2. Meanwhile, make the dressing: In a food processor or blender, combine half the dill, half the tarragon, half the parsley and half the basil with mayonnaise and yogurt. Blend until well combined. Season with lemon zest and juice, and salt and pepper to taste.
3. Strain beans and toss dry. In a large bowl, toss beans with dressing, jalapeño and scallions. Season with more salt and lemon juice to taste.
4. Once beans cool slightly, fold in sliced celery and half the remaining herbs. Spoon bean salad onto a platter or individual plates. Garnish with remaining herbs, celery leaves and fried shallots, if using.
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How to Make a Can of Beans Exciting - Wall Street Journal
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